Olives

Olive trees were first introduced to the “New World” by early California Spanish missionaries. Records date a grove planted at Mission San Diego back to 1795. Johnny Appleseed fashion, the monks spread citrus and olives to each of their mission holdings up the coast. The rest was history, as they say. But the Spanish were far from the first to cultivate this “stone fruit.” Yes, with its interior pit, the olive is classified as a fruit, though, culinary-wise, it is treated very much as a vegetable.

There is fossil evidence of wild olive trees dating back 20 to 40 million years ago. But it appears humans from the Eastern Mediterranean region (modern-day Syria, Turkey, Israel, and Lebanon) first “domesticated” (cultivated) the trees some 6,000 to 8,000 years ago. Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans additionally played a role, and they trees were introduced to North Africa and the entirety of Southern Europe, and from there eventually were carried to the New World. 

The trees themselves proved remarkably hardy and long-lived, commonly reaching ages of 300 to 600 years. Two remarkable trees far exceed that. One is in the village of Ann Volvos, in the Chania region on the Greek Island of Crete. It is estimated to be nearly 4,000 years old, and still bears some fruit. Another tree, of approximately the same age, is the “Al-Badawi,” located in the village of Al-Walaja near Bethlehem. Did Jesus, perchance, partake of its fruit? Possibly. He most certainly ate olives and enjoyed their oil on bread. Syrian or Suri varieties of olives were common throughout first-century Judea and Galilee, and alongside dates, pomegranates, figs, legumes, and whole-grained barley bread were daily table staples.

Olives right off the tree are not toxic, but incredibly bitter and astringent. They require brining over time to leach out the harsh compound called oleuropein. In biblical times, olives to be eaten were first dry cured in salt and sun. Even more common was the use of olive oil as a dip for bread. Flavored with herbs and salt, it was found on nearly every table. The oil, then as now, was also commonly used in cooking.

For centuries, olives were a highly regarded barter item in the Middle East, commonly used for both trade and taxes. References in early texts and manuscripts abound. No less in our sacred book, even above the famed cedars of Lebanon, the humble olive tree reigns. In the classic great flood narrative, recall what the returning dove brought back to Noah (Genesis 8:11).  The Biblical Archaeology Society lists some 25 references to olive trees, and more than 160 to olive oil.  Perhaps the most thought-provoking centers on the beginning of Christ’s passion. “Gethsemane” translates to “oil press,” crushing.

Today, olives to oil are mainly a steel-ground process. Back “in the day,” they were stone-ground, and generally given three pressings. That still is common. The first press produces the purest and highest grade. In Biblical times, this was generally reserved for sacred applications: temple menorahs and the anointing of kings and priests. Those applications are still found today, though first press, virgin olive oil is now a culinary staple. In Biblical times, the second press was the everyday cooking and dipping oil. It was also common in medicinal applications. The third press produced the lowest grade of oil. It was used as domestic lamp fuel and in soap production. Then, as now, the price of the oil reflected which pressing it came from.

Generally, the highest quality (and most expensive) oil also comes from first-press single-source crops. Today, many of the more affordable grocery store olive oils are blends, not necessarily bad, but harder to authenticate. Here are a few things to look for to assure a good product. First, know the three enemies of bottled olive oil are light, heat, and oxygen.  All accelerate oxidation, which degrades the oil’s beneficial antioxidant qualities, diminishing fresh aroma and causing the oil to go rancid. So, always choose an olive oil in a dark bottle (commonly green or brown) or tin. They block light. Once bought, store oil at room temp, away from any heat source. Room temperature cupboards are fine. Do not refrigerate oil. Once the container is opened, olive oil will generally keep from 3 to 6 months. Unopened, it has a shelf life of 18 to 24 months from harvest date. A common shopping mistake is to check only the EXPIRATION DATE on the bottle.  But by that date, the oil may be quite old, and though edible, it has definitely lost its finest qualities. It is far better when selecting your oil to look for the listed BATCH DATE, BOTTLED DATE, or HARVEST DATE. The closer to the present, the fresher and better.

Make sure the oil you select is labeled EXTRA VIRGIN (EVOO). This assures first-press, high quality. Avoid any products with terms like PURE, LIGHT, or OLIVE POMACE OIL  (chemically refined). To ensure authenticity, look for 3rd. party certification. Examples would be a California Olive Oil Council (COOC) or the North American Olive Association (NAOOA) quality seal on the bottle.

95% of the U.S. olive oil industry centers in California, and their one-source products, such as that from Cobram Estate, are noted for purity and quality. Kirkland Signature (Costco) also hosts high-quality imported Italian oil, organically sourced and 100% extra virgin. Worldwide, today 95% of the world’s olive oil comes from the Mediterranean Basin. The largest producer there (40 to 45% of the total) is Spain, which produces some 5 million metric tons annually, mainly from countless farms in the Andalusian region. But Jadco (Al Jouf Agricultural Development Company), in the Al Jouf region of northern Saudi Arabia, holds the record for the largest single grove, about 19,059 acres, and over 5 million olive trees.

Groves are a long-term investment. A forty-year-old bearing tree (considered young in olive tree years) is currently valued at between $1,300 to $8000 per tree, depending on the variety. It takes around 50 to 100 pounds (depending on the variety) of olives to produce a gallon of oil. The gallons are BIG business, generating around 26.5 billion annually. Any quart or gallon of olive oil is a substantial hit on our grocery budget, but few hits are so heart-healthy. And even fewer are the ones we can claim Jesus enjoyed and benefited from as well.

Anthony dela Torre
Author